Detailed view of our Tilted Ladder San Mai billet, forged with a high-performance AEB-L core and AEB-L/304 stainless Damascus jackets. The angled ladder pattern gives this stainless san mai a distinctive, directional look.
close-up of Tilted Ladder San Mai featuring an AEB-L core with AEB-L and 304 stainless Damascus outer layers. The 45-degree ladder pattern creates bold movement and striking contrast.

Tilted Ladder San Mai

Regular price $854.00
Regular price Sale price $854.00
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Our Tilted Ladder San Mai offers a fresh take on a classic Damascus look. Built with a high-performance AEB-L core and forged with AEB-L / 304 stainless Damascus jackets, this material delivers the stainless performance makers want with a pattern that stands out from traditional ladder Damascus.

Similar to a standard ladder pattern, Tilted Ladder features the same flowing, layered character, but with the pattern running at roughly a 45-degree angle instead of 90 degrees. The result is a more directional, sweeping look that gives the billet added movement and a distinctive visual rhythm across the blade.

The AEB-L core provides excellent toughness, fine grain structure, and strong edge performance, while the stainless Damascus outer layers create bold contrast and a clean etched finish. This makes Tilted Ladder San Mai an excellent choice for makers looking for a material that blends high-end appearance with dependable real-world performance.

How to Etch Stainless & Carbon Damascus

By taking your time and learning how to etch stainless Damascus and carbon Damascus steel properly, you’ll avoid problems like spots in your finished product. Damascus etching is done with a mixture of Ferric Chloride and Distilled Water, we use a 50/50 mixture. Before you begin, check the expiration date on your acid of choice to be sure that it’s not too old. Using expired acid causes problems with your etch, and you don’t want to find out after you’ve already started that your acid is too old to work properly. (Click here to buy the Ferric Chloride we use)

Step 1: Sanding

Bring your Damascus to a 400 to 600 grit finish. *Do not buff before etching! Buffing closes the pores in the metal, which will keep the acid from absorbing, and you’ll end up with an uneven etch.

Step 2: Washing

To etch Damascus, it should be perfectly clean. Thoroughly wash your piece with acetone and pat it dry with a clean rag.

Step 3: Dilution

If you’re using ferric acid, dilute it with DISTILLED water until you have pretty close to a 50/50 ratio of acid to water. Never use tap water, spring water, or filtered water – they will all cause problems with the etc. Be sure that your distilled water hasn’t been sitting for more than a year.

Step 4: Warming the acid

Warm if needed. The temperature of your acid should be between 70 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit, about room temperature.

If you need to warm your acid for use, the best method is to place your container of acid into a large bowl of warm water. Never put acid in the microwave!

Step 5: Submersion

With a wire, hang your damascus piece in the container of acid so that it hangs freely and doesn’t touch the bottom of the container.

To ensure that the acid penetrates, you can swish the piece back and forth in the acid, but brushing is the best way to be sure you get an even etch. Use a soft toothbrush and after 1 minute pull the Damascus from the etchant and lightly brush over the entire surface. Repeat this again at the 5 minute mark.

Let your piece remain in the acid for 10 minutes total or until you achieve the depth you want.

If there are sections that you don’t want the acid to etch then you can use nail polish to mask the material. Be careful to not brush the masked area when etching cause it can remove the polish.

Step 6: Neutralization

Remove your Damascus piece from the acid and dip it into a bath of baking soda for 10 minutes. Mix a generous amount of baking soda with distilled water to make your bath. Baking soda will settle to the bottom so make sure to mix it up well right before you drop your pieces in.

You can also use Windex for this step, but don’t try to spray your piece. Pour the windex into a container deep enough that you can completely submerge your Damascus item.

After 5 minutes, rinse the material thoroughly and then spray with Windex. It’s the ammonia in the windex that will ensure you have fully neutralized the Ferric Chloride. Pat dry with a clean rag.

If you have masked part of your piece so that it doesn’t etch, and you want to do another round in the acid and baking soda, completely remove the mask, clean the blade, and then reapply your mask before the second etch. Skipping this step is not advisable, even if your masking still looks good, because the acid can penetrate the second time around and ruin your design.

Step 7: Polishing with Sand Paper (Optional)

This works best with flat parts that are deep etched. One of the steels within the damascus isn’t affected by the etch, which is what gives stainless Damascus that unique texture when it’s finished. Use a 2000 grit sandpaper to gently buff the top of that slightly raised steel, and the other steel will remain dark and unpolished, giving you a beautiful and dramatic contrast. This can be tricky if the piece you are trying to sand isn’t flat, sometimes it’s just best to leave it as it is.

Some makers like to soak finished pieces in WD-40 over night to get a darker contrast. Results seem to vary with this but it won’t affect your material negatively if you want to try.

Click Here to Download "Etching Stainless & Carbon Damascus Guide".

kitchen chef knife with a stainless virus pattern damascus blade

How to Heat Treat Stainless (Aeb-L & 440C) Damascus

1 - Begin with your Damascus product wrapped as tightly as possible in .002 SST foil. Use double folds on all sides to ensure a tight seal.

2 - Preheat your furnace to austenitizing temperature – 1,925 degrees Fahrenheit.

3 - Place your wrapped piece in the furnace and allow your furnace to cycle back up to austenitizing temperature.

4 - Soak your piece for 15 minutes.

5 - Remove Foil quickly and Quench in oil until it stops smoking. You can also Plate or Air quench.

6 - Temper twice at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour each time.

**For advanced CRYO hardening, quench in liquid nitrogen for 4 hours, then re-temper once at 350 degrees Fahrenheit. For more information on cryo treatment, read through this forum thread.

**For rings and other small parts that don’t require a full heat treat we recommend using a torch and heating the material to a halloween orange. This is sufficient to harden the material and return the stainless qualities of the damascus back into the steel. Flaming will discolor the surface and prevent proper etching of the damascus so be sure to flame prior to final sanding steps.

a red hot billet of damascus steel sitting on scale