Phantom Vein San Mai Damascus billet with bold central vein pattern for knife making
Etched Phantom Vein San Mai Damascus steel showing vein detail and layered contrast

幻影纹理三枚合

常规价格 $262.00
常规价格 促销价 $262.00
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核心合金
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碳镍三明治钢

幻影纹三昧大马士革钢 – 鲜明对比,精准性能

幻影纹三昧大马士革钢专为那些不仅追求强度,更在每一次切割中追求戏剧效果的匠人而打造。这种引人注目的图案特征是在钢坯上形成一条鲜明、单一的对比纹理,如同幽灵般的光线划破阴影。这种设计展示了真正三昧结构工艺的精髓,在美观、耐用性和精准性能之间实现了平衡。

不锈钢版本 – 采用AEB-L或Nitro-V不锈钢芯,外覆302不锈钢垫片。这种组合提供了耐腐蚀性、刃口保持性,以及清晰、干净的蚀刻效果,突出了纹理的清晰度。

碳钢版本 – 提供高性能结构,采用O-1或1075碳钢芯和镍垫片,搭配1095碳钢,以获得韧性以及蚀刻后鲜明、深邃的对比度。

每块钢坯都经过精心定心和锻造以实现平衡,确保纹理在材料中真实呈现。无论您是制作厨刀、猎刀还是艺术品,幻影纹三昧都提供了引人入胜的美感和可靠的强度,使其在形式和功能上都脱颖而出。

亮点:

  • 鲜明、单一纹理的大马士革三昧设计

  • 不锈钢或碳钢芯选项,满足不同性能需求

  • 平衡锻造,确保核心居中和一致性

  • 鲜明对比,非常适合定制刀具、珠宝或精细金属制品

How to Etch Stainless & Carbon Damascus

By taking your time and learning how to etch stainless Damascus and carbon Damascus steel properly, you’ll avoid problems like spots in your finished product. Damascus etching is done with a mixture of Ferric Chloride and Distilled Water, we use a 50/50 mixture. Before you begin, check the expiration date on your acid of choice to be sure that it’s not too old. Using expired acid causes problems with your etch, and you don’t want to find out after you’ve already started that your acid is too old to work properly. (Click here to buy the Ferric Chloride we use)

Step 1: Sanding

Bring your Damascus to a 400 to 600 grit finish. *Do not buff before etching! Buffing closes the pores in the metal, which will keep the acid from absorbing, and you’ll end up with an uneven etch.

Step 2: Washing

To etch Damascus, it should be perfectly clean. Thoroughly wash your piece with acetone and pat it dry with a clean rag.

Step 3: Dilution

If you’re using ferric acid, dilute it with DISTILLED water until you have pretty close to a 50/50 ratio of acid to water. Never use tap water, spring water, or filtered water – they will all cause problems with the etc. Be sure that your distilled water hasn’t been sitting for more than a year.

Step 4: Warming the acid

Warm if needed. The temperature of your acid should be between 70 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit, about room temperature.

If you need to warm your acid for use, the best method is to place your container of acid into a large bowl of warm water. Never put acid in the microwave!

Step 5: Submersion

With a wire, hang your damascus piece in the container of acid so that it hangs freely and doesn’t touch the bottom of the container.

To ensure that the acid penetrates, you can swish the piece back and forth in the acid, but brushing is the best way to be sure you get an even etch. Use a soft toothbrush and after 1 minute pull the Damascus from the etchant and lightly brush over the entire surface. Repeat this again at the 5 minute mark.

Let your piece remain in the acid for 10 minutes total or until you achieve the depth you want.

If there are sections that you don’t want the acid to etch then you can use nail polish to mask the material. Be careful to not brush the masked area when etching cause it can remove the polish.

Step 6: Neutralization

Remove your Damascus piece from the acid and dip it into a bath of baking soda for 10 minutes. Mix a generous amount of baking soda with distilled water to make your bath. Baking soda will settle to the bottom so make sure to mix it up well right before you drop your pieces in.

You can also use Windex for this step, but don’t try to spray your piece. Pour the windex into a container deep enough that you can completely submerge your Damascus item.

After 5 minutes, rinse the material thoroughly and then spray with Windex. It’s the ammonia in the windex that will ensure you have fully neutralized the Ferric Chloride. Pat dry with a clean rag.

If you have masked part of your piece so that it doesn’t etch, and you want to do another round in the acid and baking soda, completely remove the mask, clean the blade, and then reapply your mask before the second etch. Skipping this step is not advisable, even if your masking still looks good, because the acid can penetrate the second time around and ruin your design.

Step 7: Polishing with Sand Paper (Optional)

This works best with flat parts that are deep etched. One of the steels within the damascus isn’t affected by the etch, which is what gives stainless Damascus that unique texture when it’s finished. Use a 2000 grit sandpaper to gently buff the top of that slightly raised steel, and the other steel will remain dark and unpolished, giving you a beautiful and dramatic contrast. This can be tricky if the piece you are trying to sand isn’t flat, sometimes it’s just best to leave it as it is.

Some makers like to soak finished pieces in WD-40 over night to get a darker contrast. Results seem to vary with this but it won’t affect your material negatively if you want to try.

Click Here to Download "Etching Stainless & Carbon Damascus Guide".

kitchen chef knife with a stainless virus pattern damascus blade

How to Heat Treat Carbon (1095) Damascus

Coating: ATP-641, Turco, or similar high temperature anti-scale/decarburization coatings can be used in replace of foil to reduce scale or surface decarburization.

Austenizing: Heat oven to Austenizing temperature (1475°F / 800°C)

When oven reaches Austenizing temperature, place material in oven and soak for 10 minutes. Soak time can vary from 5 to 15 minutes based on heat treating equipment and cross section but in most cases, a 10 minute soak time is ideal.

**Do not put blades in oven when cold, insert at or just below austenizing temperature–temperature variances is for difference in stock thicknesses and a window of margin for error.

Quenching: Suggested quench oil: Parks 50–expected as quenched hardness may be lower if a slower quench oil or non-industrial quench medium is used.

Tempering: Typical harnesses of 1095 carbon steel after tempering for 2 hours at different temperatures
Grade Temperature, °C (°F) Rockwell hardness, HRC
1095 high carbon steel, carbon content: 0.95% 205°C (400°F) 58 HRC
260°C (500°F) 57 HRC
315°C (600°F) 52 HRC
370°C (700°F) 47 HRC
425°C (800°F) 43 HRC
480°C (900°F) 42 HRC
540°C (1000°F) 41 HRC
595°C (1100°F) 40 HRC
650°C (1200°F) 33 HRC

How to Heat Treat Carbon (0-1) Damascus

Coating: ATP-641, Turco, or similar high temperature anti-scale/decarburization coatings can be used in replace of foil to reduce scale or surface decarburization.

Preheating: Heat oven to 1300°F and place material in oven.

Austenitizing (High Heat): Heat slowly (400°F a/hr) from the preheat to 1475-1500°F (802-816C)

Soak for 30 minutes for the first inch (25.4 mm) of thickness, plus 15 minutes for each additional inch (25.4 mm).

Quenching: Oil quench to a temperature no lower than 150-125°F (66-51°C).

***Note: O-1 is somewhat prone to quench cracking, especially if there are significant changes in section thickness and sharp internal corners. The oil quenching should be performed so that the heat removal is as uniform as possible in all areas of the part being quenched. Be sure to remove the part from the oil before the temperature drops to ambient temperature.

Suggested quench oil: Parks AAA, McMaster 11-second, Houghton G–expected as quenched hardness may be lower if a slower quench oil or non-industrial quench medium is used. Parks 50 is not recommended. Heat oil at a temperature of 300 to 400°F (149-204°C) is recommended.

Tempering: Temper immediately after quenching. Do not allow the part to cool below 125°F (51°C). The typical tempering range is 350 – 400°F (177 -204°C).

Hold at temperature for 1 hour per inch (25.4 mm) of thickness, 2 hours minimum, then air cool to ambient temperature.

To minimize internal stresses in cross sections greater than 3 inches (76.2 mm) and to improve stability in parts that will be EDM’d after heat treatment, a soaking time of 4 to 6 hours at the tempering temperature is strongly recommended.